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Ask for an Old Fashioned in much of the United States and a bartender will reach for whiskey. Ask in Wisconsin and the question is different: sweet, sour, or press? That small exchange says a lot. In Wisconsin, the Old Fashioned is not a museum piece or a test of cocktail knowledge. It is a drink people order before fish fry, at supper clubs, after work, at weddings, and across the bar from someone they have known for thirty years. It comes with brandy more often than bourbon